DING!
I hear they're trying to improve it for spectators and racers alike... put stands closer to the track and widen/smooth the track in places so it won't be a parade. I live nearby, which is why I thought of posting it.
Here's another one... not exactly a race track, but a very famous location that's related to autosport.
Last edited by 5th Earth, .
Street course, I've traced the route (with one minor possible error, wasn't sure exactly where the hairpin was). Also excuse the fragment of the googlemaps controls.
That second pic would be a good one to show the people who whine about the dirt being too severe.
Look at the bright side--as the only car in your class, you're guaranteed first place.
1: Open LFS folder
2: Open "Data" folder
3: Open "Set" folder (IIRC--it should be full of other .set files)
4: Copy the setup you downloaded into this folder. *
5: Run LFS.
The new setup should appear in the setup list setup screen (upper right). Just click on it and there you go.
*The file should be named something like "X_X_coolsetup.set", where X_X_ is the name of the car (i.e. XF_GTI or XR_GT_TURBO). DO NOT change the "X_X_" part of the filename. Otherwise the setup will not appear properly.
2: Open "Data" folder
3: Open "Set" folder (IIRC--it should be full of other .set files)
4: Copy the setup you downloaded into this folder. *
5: Run LFS.
The new setup should appear in the setup list setup screen (upper right). Just click on it and there you go.
*The file should be named something like "X_X_coolsetup.set", where X_X_ is the name of the car (i.e. XF_GTI or XR_GT_TURBO). DO NOT change the "X_X_" part of the filename. Otherwise the setup will not appear properly.
Last edited by 5th Earth, .
the LFS forums left RSC and are now running independently. As a result of the move, all the threads were "lost" (they're still on RSC).
Since S1 has been updated to use S2 physics, any new setups you find will work with an S1 liscence.
Since S1 has been updated to use S2 physics, any new setups you find will work with an S1 liscence.
My general philosophy is: if you suspect the guy behind you is going to try and seriously outbrake you, get out of the way. Move to the side and tap your brakes before full braking to give warning. Let him rocket ahead, then take a tight line and repass him on the inside of the exit because slow in=fast out. Keeps everyone safe, and looks very impressive when you pull it off.
You know, I thought he chose the f550 because it's the only one they sell with a non-square aspect ratio. It aso has a finer groove pitch than the others, which looks better.
Specifically, it makes the camera move like the ingame rendered head of your driver. The practical effect is that when steering left or right in cars with slow steering, the head moves slightly left and right as the model does the "hand over hand" maneuver.
Last time I drove (okay, sat in) a 2005 Honda Civic Si? I love their console setup--the gear lever is about 2 inches from your hand at all times.
I like overcrowded servers.
No, seriously, most people probably remember my thread about how I think there are actually too many servers in LFS. I won't hesitate to join an empty server if I can't find an occupied one that I like, but frankly I no longer have sympathy given the fact that the server supply far outstrips the demand.
On the other hand, I always preferentially join servers with only one person in them, even if it's not the sort of race I originally was looking for. I appreciate that racing by yourself is boring.
No, seriously, most people probably remember my thread about how I think there are actually too many servers in LFS. I won't hesitate to join an empty server if I can't find an occupied one that I like, but frankly I no longer have sympathy given the fact that the server supply far outstrips the demand.
On the other hand, I always preferentially join servers with only one person in them, even if it's not the sort of race I originally was looking for. I appreciate that racing by yourself is boring.
If the idea is to give people a taste of the slick-tire cars, then I think the MRT is the way to go. The GTR cars for the most part just feel like more powerful, better-gripping ersions of their stock counterparts, while the MRT has a very unique handling style. At the same time, the MRT is very poorly suited to racing on Blackwood--long straight+low top speed=frustration. In other words, people can get a taste of the high performance capabilities of the other cars in LFS without being able to fully enjoy them.
I agree with the suggestion that the selection of cars be changed to XFG, FZ5, and MRT. I think this selection gives a much more representative range of what the game is like at this point--the classic low-power class, the high-performance street class, and the crazy slick tired cars.
You still have a very limited choice of tracks (compared to how many there are in the full version), and the MRT on blackwood, as mentioned, gets frustrating after a while. I admit that this version of the demo would be "better" than the current one, but S2 is better than S1, and we want people to know that.
I agree with the suggestion that the selection of cars be changed to XFG, FZ5, and MRT. I think this selection gives a much more representative range of what the game is like at this point--the classic low-power class, the high-performance street class, and the crazy slick tired cars.
You still have a very limited choice of tracks (compared to how many there are in the full version), and the MRT on blackwood, as mentioned, gets frustrating after a while. I admit that this version of the demo would be "better" than the current one, but S2 is better than S1, and we want people to know that.
In general, the GBoR won't consider any record that involves serious sleep deprivation. That's been their policy for a while now.
That said, with regular driver swaps (ideally every hour or two), I think it wouldn't be a health risk. Organizing enough time to do it would be hard, as well as ensuring the computers don't crash or something. Even the current crop of endurance races have a notable attrition rate due to computer failures of various kinds.
That said, with regular driver swaps (ideally every hour or two), I think it wouldn't be a health risk. Organizing enough time to do it would be hard, as well as ensuring the computers don't crash or something. Even the current crop of endurance races have a notable attrition rate due to computer failures of various kinds.
Somewhere int he graphics oiptions for LFS it actually tells you how much video memory the game is using. IIRC it's only around 32 MB, maybe less. I know other games can use a lot more, but as many other have said, i think more than 128mb is probably overkill.
Heck, I bought a MS Sidewinder wheel, new, for $20. No force feeback, but it's been perfectly fine otherwise. In hindsight I wish I got something with FFB, but for an expirimental initial buy I'd highly recommend it.
Funny story... I realised this just after I made that post, and was about to edit it when my motherboard physically broke. One of the (non-CPU) heatsinks just spontaneously fell off.
illepallWriting this on a different comp. Ah well.
As mentioned in an earlier reply to you, you're looking into the lens. However, given a different focal length the same setup will function as a crude projector. The room will have to be VERY dark and it'll be rather fuzzy since the monitor isn't bright enough and the lens is relatively low quality, but it'll work.
A better option for a cheap projhector might be to find an old overhead transparency projector, steal the lens armature off of it, and use that. Brightness will still be an issue but the image quality will be higher.
Here's a collection of rather garish skins I made, all in the same theme. I was going to make one for every car, but stopped because I decided they didn't really look good on most of the cars. Also, they were a ton of work to match on the seams (FOX and FO8 were nightmares).
Except for the UF1 skin. That's a different style, and I rather like it. Suitable for RallyX, clean version available on request.
Except for the UF1 skin. That's a different style, and I rather like it. Suitable for RallyX, clean version available on request.
Blackwood + XFG --the classic. No better feeling than running the chincane flat-out, and knowing you did it perfectly because you can shift right into 4th gear without waiting.
Westhill + FOX --The ego-booster. You barely have to ever touch the brakes, it's just one long pedal-to-the-metal thrash in 5th and 6th gear with just enough slow bits to keep you interested. Not the most technically challenging combo, but it feels great.
FXR + AS Historic --nothing special here, it's just a fun track in a fun car. Love those sweeping turns through the hills.
BL-RallyX + RB4 --because rallying is awesome.
BL-RallyX + FO8 --because it's silly, and with practice actually works suprisingly well.
Westhill + FOX --The ego-booster. You barely have to ever touch the brakes, it's just one long pedal-to-the-metal thrash in 5th and 6th gear with just enough slow bits to keep you interested. Not the most technically challenging combo, but it feels great.
FXR + AS Historic --nothing special here, it's just a fun track in a fun car. Love those sweeping turns through the hills.
BL-RallyX + RB4 --because rallying is awesome.
BL-RallyX + FO8 --because it's silly, and with practice actually works suprisingly well.
Except that F1 cars, being single-seaters with the seat in the middle, don't alter their left-right balance when someone sits in them. Of course, most famous tracks run touring cars and the like too.
Personally, construction costs aside, I think all tracks should have crossovers. But I can't really justify it other than saying I think tracks should have roughly equal amounts of left and right turns.
My $0.02:
I don't think the two-wing desing is ugly. I think the "round hole" airbox is ugly, but the wing design is all right, appearance-wise.
I don't think the two-wing desing is ugly. I think the "round hole" airbox is ugly, but the wing design is all right, appearance-wise.
All this being true, one should note that the Kyoto Ring, the track where left-right weight distribution is likely to have the largest effect, is counter-clockwise.
Ariel Atom
Spyker C8 Spyder T
Honda Civic iVTEC
Lancia Delta Group B Evo
Toyota 4runner (an older one)
Ferrari F40
Holden Monaro CV8Z
Aston Martin DB9
Custom Baja Buggy
Vespa
Spyker C8 Spyder T
Honda Civic iVTEC
Lancia Delta Group B Evo
Toyota 4runner (an older one)
Ferrari F40
Holden Monaro CV8Z
Aston Martin DB9
Custom Baja Buggy
Vespa
As an explanation of why you can't use a FWD car to drift, it's all to do with how they react to increased throttle. Hitting the gas in a FWD causes understeer, because you are decreasing the traction of the tires that are making you turn in the first place. You can use the e-brake to get the tail out, but going on the throttle will ALWAYS stop any oversteer you have, and turn it into understeer.
In RWD, hitting the throttle decreases the traction of the rear tires, which causes oversteer and is what you need to do to maintain a drift over a long period. The trick is to use exactly the right amount of throttle--too little, and the tires regain grip and the drift ends. Too much, and you just spin all the way around, as you have noticed. Drifting is more about throttle control than steering control.
(incidentally, AWD can also be drifted, although the technique changes a bit. It's generally considered faster and easier to drift AWD, but purists will often argue that RWD is the "higher art")
It gets complicated though... accelerating in a RWD also shifts the weight to the rear tires, which gives them more traction, so if you get on the gas too early, then the drift won't initiate properly, and if you accelerate forward too hard, the car starts understeering, which breaks the drift. You have to shift the weight forward to break traction in the back, then get on the gas fast and hard to get the wheels spinning due to being over-powered, and keep the gas high enough to keep them spinning--it's like doing a burnout that's not a straight line.
Another good method to break rear traction is the "clutch kick"--basically, you pop the clutch in and out without releasing the gas pedal. This causes a sudden loss of acceleration, which shifts the weight forward, followed by a sudden burst of power as the high-revving engine slams back into gear, which breaks the tires free. Just bear in mind duration is important--if the clutch is in for the wrong length of time, too long or too short, it won't really work right.
In RWD, hitting the throttle decreases the traction of the rear tires, which causes oversteer and is what you need to do to maintain a drift over a long period. The trick is to use exactly the right amount of throttle--too little, and the tires regain grip and the drift ends. Too much, and you just spin all the way around, as you have noticed. Drifting is more about throttle control than steering control.
(incidentally, AWD can also be drifted, although the technique changes a bit. It's generally considered faster and easier to drift AWD, but purists will often argue that RWD is the "higher art")
It gets complicated though... accelerating in a RWD also shifts the weight to the rear tires, which gives them more traction, so if you get on the gas too early, then the drift won't initiate properly, and if you accelerate forward too hard, the car starts understeering, which breaks the drift. You have to shift the weight forward to break traction in the back, then get on the gas fast and hard to get the wheels spinning due to being over-powered, and keep the gas high enough to keep them spinning--it's like doing a burnout that's not a straight line.
Another good method to break rear traction is the "clutch kick"--basically, you pop the clutch in and out without releasing the gas pedal. This causes a sudden loss of acceleration, which shifts the weight forward, followed by a sudden burst of power as the high-revving engine slams back into gear, which breaks the tires free. Just bear in mind duration is important--if the clutch is in for the wrong length of time, too long or too short, it won't really work right.
Last edited by 5th Earth, .
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG